21.6.08

Si huele, es un hombre. Río de Janeiro.

En esto que quería ir a Copacabana pero no pudo ser. Palabras mayores, Copacabana. Como “consuelo” otra vez Santa Teresa y hacia abajo, claro. Santa Teresa es una especie de Barrio Alto de Lisboa doblemente alto, doblemente dificultoso. Llego a Lapa, que es la zona de los clubs (clubis en portugués) de la música brasilera de ahora, una mezcla de las rentas bossanovescas y quién sabe si semente de alegrías venideras.

Justo después de los travestís madrugadores juegan a reírse los niños y los viejos en puestos de venta ambulantes y vacilantes (los camiones de plástico rotos, una serpentina de alambique, la botella de Johny Walker vacía delante de una brasa con minipicanhas, morosos pinchos morunos de vaca). La calle es un trasunto atlántico de las argelinas o egipcias y supongo que de las tailandesas o de las vietnamitas. Huele a sardinas delante del cartel de chapa de “Habitaçao para cavalheiros”. Los unos, los otros y el edificio entero resultan de portada de disco de música latina o, todavía peor, de un clip sobado como las sábanas de las habitaciones. Felizmente, como una anunciación, o mejor, como una epifanía, aparece el Parque de Flamingo, el resto europeizado de un desaparecido “morro do castelo”, que permite el disfrute gozoso del espacio y del transcurrir con distracciones ciertamente menores: unos niños juegan al fútbol sobre el césped, la pareja que dejará de hablar en breve, la conversación de cuatro o cinco. El piso es de tierra. La iluminación es débil. Un montón de arena y unos plásticos anuncian un leve obstáculo. Lo que parece más tierra y sobre todo más plásticos se mueve y hiede mucho antes de cruzarlo. No me incomodo, no estoy solo, no es ninguna aventura. El olor es feroz, puro amoníaco. Vuelvo jadeando o jadeante mientras saco brillo a las vías del sudoroso tranvía amarillo y rojo.

PD: Sea el espíritu mentiroso de “toudo isto” para mis dos obligados lectores copacabanenes y a mayor beneficio de la magna idea del Consultorismo Tropical, que podría o debería ser un complemento a lo que viene abajo:

4 comentarios:

david santos dijo...

EURO 2008

ESPANHA Parabéns!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anónimo dijo...

Una amiga mia cuando enseña cine a sus alumnos adolescentes, les dice: "los hombres de verdad, son los hombres que sudan" y les pone "El bueno, el feo y el malo" con Clint Eastwood...
Menos mal que corres por las mañanas, porque lo que describes en tus posts es mas brasileño que lo que ves por el dia en las reuniones con los "parceiros"...
Susana

Anónimo dijo...

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